Sirbaz Khan – Abdul Joshi’s first attempt on April 13 failed due to unsafe ropes, the second attempt on April 14 failed again due to the end of ropes at Camp 4 (6,900m), but the Pakistani team made a third attempt in which they succeeded and on Friday at 1:17 a.m. they were standing on the Annapurna peak of Nepal.
Mount Annapurna was first climbed by a Pakistani in honour of the late Pakistani mountaineer and High Altitude Porter (HAP) Muhammad Ali Sadpara.
The four-member team left for Nepal earlier this month to try to reach Annapurna, the world’s 10th highest peak.
Led by Sirbaz Khan, the expedition included climber Abdul Joshi, manager Saad Munawar and photographer Kamran Ali, better known as ‘Kamran on Bike’.
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Nepal, China and Pakistan have 14 of the world’s highest peaks with an elevation of over 8,000 meters.
While the highest mountain, Everest (8,848 m), is located in Nepal, Pakistan has 5 peaks of 8,000 m, including K2, Gasherbrum 1 and 2, Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat.
To reach this 8,000-meter peak, climbers enter the ‘death zone’ because the oxygen pressure here is insufficient to breathe.
At 8,091 meters (26,545 feet) above sea level, Annapurna One is the 10th highest peak in the world and is said to be one of the most dangerous mountains.
The ascent of Annapurna One is a steep rock in the southern part of 3,000 meters (9,800 feet) which makes it one of the most difficult climbs in the world.
On June 3, 1950, French mountaineers Maris Herzog and Louis Lachnal first climbed Annapurna Hill.
Sirbaz Khan, from Aliabad, Hunza, began his professional mountaineering career in 2016.
In 2019, Sirbaz Khan became the first Pakistani to climb the mountain without the use of extra oxygen, which is the fourth highest peak in the world at 8,516 meters in Nepal.
He accompanied Muhammad Ali Sadpara in four expeditions to climb the mountains. His last expedition was to Manaslu in Nepal.
Abdul Joshi, from Shamshal in Hunza, is a professional climber and HAP.
He has been part of various expeditions to climb 8,000 meters in Pakistan, but this was his first successful attempt.
Their Manager Saad wrote in a social media post that this summit is dedicated to the best Mountaineer Pakistan ever produced Muhammad Ali Sadpara.