Beauty

Iconic fragrances through the ages

Throughout history, the concept of makeup has evolved, from the rudimentary makeshift pastes to a more sophisticated multibillion-dollar industry. This industry, i.e the ‘makeup industry’ has seen remarkable growth in the last decade. Skincare too has become a focus of many celebrities and different techniques and methodologies have flowed. Some celebrities follow a very strict ‘nighttime skincare routine’, which is quickly adopted by the masses.

One industry, where the focus seemed nonexistent seems to be thriving the most. That is the fragrance industry. It comes as no surprise, as fragrance has been a ‘secret weapon’ of seduction since time immemorial. Why exactly the fragrance? Why does it have such a visceral response? Why indeed!

Science has loads of data on why this ‘unseen’ phenomenon can be so powerful. But before we dive into science, let’s go down the memory lane of history. In Egyptian times, Cleopatra was a queen to be feared for her ruthlessness and military strategy. She was an embodiment of a ‘woman in charge’ shaping history through her tactics. She was no mean feat, and she was no wallflower. Her beauty was a thing revered both in Egypt and abroad.

Historians have described her beauty at length. She has been emulated on celluloid and in pop culture almost 3000 years later. This can be seen with the exaggerated eye makeup that she supposedly wore. Her power of seduction, though, did not solely lie in makeup, her power could be felt. Her power was her fragrance.

It is whispered amongst historians that Cleopatra wore a very potent perfume oil, made of Jasmin flowers and spices. The effect was so powerful, that many authoritative men were transfixed by her very presence, they seemed to be in a state of ‘hypnotic trance’.

What did Cleopatra douse herself in, remains a mystery, as she would order batches after batches of her favorite concoctions. The perfumers, however, could not live to tell their tales. Most of them died tragically in accidents. Their secrets died with them.

Coming back to the subject of science. The olfactory sense is one of the most powerful senses in the human body, albeit the most ignored. Visual and auditory senses are usually the two senses people focus on the most. The olfactory sense is directly linked to the prefrontal cortex of the brain, and stimuli of this sense send a very tangible response to the human body. It can be felt, physically.

When confronted with an awful smell, the body responds, involuntarily, in a way that communicates discomfort to the onlooker. When one is presented with the smell of cooking, the brain sends a signal to the body, the salivary glands, and the stomach. One feels hunger.

Perfumes have existed throughout human history. They hold a great value, however, they seem to be underrated, often touted as a luxury for the ‘rich’ to enjoy. In the early part of the 20th century when the world was plagued with two world wars, the designer Gabrielle’s ‘Coco’ Chanel was introduced to the world. This perfume became an instant success amongst the elites of French society.

Chanel N5 was created by Ernest Beaux. Legend has it that Coco had refused several batches of perfumes, before deciding on this, number 5 is derived from the number of the samples which was approved. The concept of the perfume was a woman’s skin but better. This perfume had aldehydes, civet, Jasmin, and neroli as the main notes. The smell of the perfume is powdery, fresh, and clean. Due to its animalic base, it leaves a trail, tantalising the senses of those who are behind. It is the 20th century’s ‘secret weapon’.

Chanel N5, though wildly successful was still used by the European and American upper class. It became popular amongst the masses because of Marylin Monroe, a heartthrob of many, who famously said that she wore Chanel N5 to bed every night.

Needless to say, the sales of the perfume skyrocketed, and this fragrance found a home in the hearts of many. As time went on, this perfume was passed down from one generation to the next. To this day, it maintains a best seller status, which very few enjoy.

The legend of Shalimar

Shalimar, is a name very familiar in Pakistan, due to a popular tourist destination in Lahore, called Shalimar Bagh, or Shalimar gardens. While people are fascinated with the gardens, very few are aware of how this garden was immortalised by a French perfumer Jacques Guerlain, who created an iconic masterpiece and named it Shalimar. This perfume was released in the same year as the Great Gatsby, the year was 1925.

Though Shalimar graced the dressing tables of many influential ladies, it is rumored that Shalimar could not be worn by ‘everyone’. It is said that this perfume chooses its wearer, to wear a Shalimar is a luxury not everyone can afford. This masterpiece leaves people transfixed, the trail is hypnotic and leaves an impression of a femme fatale, and one can only read about.

Jacques Guerlain was fascinated with the East and the romance between Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jehan, recreating this romantic tale in a liquid form. This form turned out to be so potent and mesmerising, that it left a permanent impression in people’s consciousness. This Goliath of a perfume demands a woman to give it respect. The woman wearing this commands the attention and envy of many.

The turn of the millennia saw different trends in the world of perfumery, in some decades, spices were popular like another giant of its time, Opium. Derived from the opium use of Chinese, it set markets ablaze in the 1970s.

The current trend in perfumery is not as bold as its predecessors; with new regulations with IFRA, most of the notes are now banned. The perfumes, nowadays, are watered-down versions, paying homage to the greats before them. Currently, the trend is to wear weak perfumes, with corporations diluting the formula to suit the current trends.

If you are in the market and want to become an instant icon, try Chanel N5 or Shalimar.